Every trail in Torres del Paine feels big, but this is the one people cross the world for. Three sheer granite towers rise straight out of a glacial lake at the head of the Ascencio Valley, and the only way to see them up close is on foot.
The walk
From the Welcome Centre in the park's Central sector, the path climbs across open hillside to the Paso de los Vientos, which earns its name: I had to lean into the gusts to stay on my feet. Beyond the pass the trail drops into the Ascencio Valley and follows the river to Refugio Chileno, the last chance for a hot drink and a toilet.
After Chileno the path winds through beautiful southern beech forest before the final hour, a steep scramble up a moraine of loose boulders. It is slow going and it feels endless. Then you crest the last rise and the towers are right there, rising over a milky green lake. Find a sheltered rock, put on every layer you brought and stay as long as the cold allows.
Good to know
- Park and trail booking rules have changed in recent seasons. Check the current requirements before you go.
- The Patagonian wind is not a figure of speech. Keep hats and maps secured, and take care on exposed sections.
- Some people start in the dark from Chileno to see the towers at sunrise. If you do, bring a headlamp and allow extra time on the boulders.
- Pack out everything you bring in. The park is fragile and visitor numbers are huge.